Figure 5.15 : First Aid Kit
A first aid kit is an important item of equipment, especially when you are using a knife, axe or saw, therefore, it should be carried on your person (or what I do is just carry selected items in a pocket using a small stuff sack e.g. plasters, bandage etc, with the main first aid kit in the rucksack). The first aid kit should be stocked to handle every day and worst case scenarios, as typically you will be a significant distance from medical help. The first aid kit shown in figure 5.15 contains:
The most common requirements will by to treat minor cuts, splitters and blisters. To treat blisters, first clean the effected area with surgical spirits and drain using a sterilised needle (heated in flame) by making a small hole at the edge of the blister and gently push out the fluid. Then wipe on a little antiseptic cream or surgical spirit and cover with a suitable plaster or gauze and tape. Tip, ensure that the tape does not stick onto the blister as this can cause tearing when removed. If possible remove the cause of the blister in the shoe and increase padding using thicker or additional socks. At night allow blisters to dry by removing plasters and drain again. A rub with surgical spirits also helps harden and clean the skin and on your feet and between your toes. You should pay particular attention to medium sized cuts as these can easily become infected. Ensure these are covered with a suitable plaster i.e. keeping the cut clean and immobilised it whilst its healing. Tip, if a cut does become dirty keep a clean plaster on over night, its surprising how easily the dirt is drawn out. The disadvantage of keeping a plaster on for a long period of time is that it softens the skin, when possible air the cut to allow the skin to harden (although not recommended I find that a splash of surgical spirits helps). Worst case scenarios are covered with a standard army field dressing and a selection of dressing pads and stretch bandages. Pain killers included; Paracetamol (general, reduce fever), Co-codamol (stronger), Ibuprofen (anti-inflammatory, aspirin based). Care should be taken when mixing Paracetamol based tablets i.e. Paracetamol and Co-codamol. Finally, Imodium tablets to treat bowl disorders.
Figure 5.16 : Emergency kit
This is a backup kit for those moments such as “what was that cracking sound” as you stand on your compass or “where did I put those matches”. It does not contain any medical supplies as this a separate kit in its own right i.e. a few plasters aren’t much use. The kit is based on a Gelert combat survival kit with additional items added to improve its effectiveness. The main purpose of this kit is to provide a means of making fire, clean water and rescue signalling in emergencies, therefore, it should be carried on your person. Fire making is possible using matches, flint and steel, cotton wool (tinder), rubber band (good fire lighter when lit with a match) and a candle. Fire wood can be cut using the wire saw. Water purification is possible using water purification tablets in a plastic bag marked with a 1 litre line (masking tape sealing tin can be used to patch bag), or boiling using the survival kits tin (volume 200 ml). Rescue signalling is possible using fire (smoke and light), whistle and signal mirror. The kit also contains a fishing kit, snare wire and nylon cord for trapping food, and other useful items. The survival kit shown in figure 5.16 contains:
A pocket kit is shown in 5.16.1. This has a carabineer with a build in LED torch that can be clipped onto a belt loop. Originally it had a build in compass, wasn’t very good, so removed to make a tinder box, cotton wool saturated in petroleum jelly, with a metal lid made out of a tin can. Attached are a firesteel, whistle, compass, SAK and a bamboo tube containing a fishing kit(plugged with a cork containing four hooks, two fly’s, pre-tied and line) wrapped with 2m of three core nylon cord and 0.5m of eight strand brass wire (both can be un-twisted to produce thinner cord).
Figure 5.16.1 : Pocket kit
Although a fire does give out light, generally speaking a touch is a must have and should be carried on your person from late afternoon i.e. the sun can go down quicker than you realises, leaving you stranded in the dark. I normally take three torches with me, as shown in figure 5.17 with spare bulbs and batteries. Hand torches have there place, however a head torch makes life a lot easier i.e. when you need both hands free, no need to try and hold the torch in your mouth, under your arm etc. The torches in the middle and right are waterproof, AA battery, filament bulb versions. Battery life isn’t brilliant, can easily drain these flat in a night if used continuously. The torch on the left is an LED, AAA battery version, battery life is very good, therefore, is my preferred torch (unless its raining).
Figure 5.17 : Torches
Rucksacks are one item of equipment that I don’t mind spending a little more money on. In general the build quality of most modern rucksacks are fine, however, better quality ones do make life more comfortable i.e. fitting. The main problems I find with cheaper rucksacks are the zips (teeth too small, can be damaged / jammed by grit), shoulder and waste straps (not enough padding, can not be adjusted to fit correctly). The rucksack I have is a Karrimor Sabre 60/100 (60 – 100L depending on dividers), PLCE version (personal load carrying equipment, army term) non-segmented i.e. through bag with adjustable dividers, as shown in figure 5.18. Build quality is very good, there are a few little things I would change (a bit on the heavy side, but I guess this is always the trade off for strength), however, these can be forgive as its very comfortable to wear. Waste and shoulder straps are very nicely designed, easily adjustable, with a good thick layer of padding. If more space is required two standard PLCE side poaches can be fitted, giving approximately 25L extra capacity (these can be attached to a separate harness to form a day sack).
Equipment should not be stored in a rucksack loose, to simplify location and prevent loss. Clothes and sleeping bag are stored in a water proof lining, a 40L version is more than adequate for most needs. Other items are stored in stuff sacks. Pans should also be stored in suitable bags to prevent soot rubbing off on other items. In addition to the main rucksack, additional belt and rucksack webbing can be helpful. A water bottle belt poach simplifies access to water, reducing the number of times you need to take off your rucksack. General purpose utilities pouches (attached to the rucksack or belt) are useful for all those items that tend to accumulate in your pockets, shown in figure 5.18. Starting top left, going clockwise:
Figure 5.18 : Rucksack and webbing
Figure 5.18.1 : Fire making tin
Figure 5.18.2 : Utility pouch
Figure 5.19 : Boots
Boots are another item of equipment that can seriously effect your enjoyment, from general aching feet to the dreaded blisters and open sores. Their primary role is to protect a foot from bruising and abrasion. The key to success are layers of shock absorbing, cushioning material. This starts with the boot’s sole, choose one with a thick tread to provide good grip and help isolate the foot from sharp, bumpy surfaces (should still be flexible enough to allow a natural walking gait). A boot should have a snug fit, enough to keep the foot from slipping around in the shoe but not that tight that it wont allow the foot to swell (after a days walking). To aid in this, choose a boot with a well padded inner and sides. Another import layer of cushioning is provided by socks, which also absorb sweat and moisture away from the foot (capillary effect, wicking). The number and type of socks worn depends on the type of boot and temperature i.e. to avoid hot sweaty feet, however, a good quality woollen sock is difficult to beat. One theory says that a thick woollen sock allows a foot to breath (removing moisture), as the layer of air contained in the sock is forced out of the boot through the sock on each step. In cold weather I tend to wear two socks a thinner inner sock (synthetic: acrylic, polyester poly-propylene) and an outer woollen sock. The theory being that synthetic fibres remove water away from a foot quickly, which is then absorbed by the woollen sock (maybe). Tip, the general consensus seems to be that cotton socks are a bad idea as they loss their thermal insulation and deform when wet. Most modern medium / light weight walking boots are up to the job, requiring very little breaking in (after 30 minutes walking any areas requiring attention will be revealed).
One of the main aims of these layers of cushioning material and water removal is to prevent blisters. These can be very painful, therefore the key is to treat them as soon has a sore or hot spot occurs (as previously described). If possible remove any areas causing irritation e.g. stitching, sock seams. If only an inflamed area or blister has formed, cover with a layer of padding material and tape. If a large blister has formed it should be drained. This process may need to be repeated a number of times during the day (although sometimes it can be very difficult to get your boots back on after treatment, sometimes its best not to look). At the end of a walk, when camp is pitched, remove your boots and relax for a moment, leaving your socks on for a few minute to allow then to dry a little. Then remove your socks hanging them up to fully dry and air before examining your feet. Treat as before, also rub in a little surgical spirits around your toes and the sole of your foot. Change into clean socks and trainers if available (again for long walks I wouldn’t carry this extra weight). At night remove all padding material, drain and wipe with surgical spits again, this will allow the blisters to dry and the skin harden a little. In the morning pad and tape again before putting your boots on.
When the weather is bad its very easy for your boots to become water logged. After you have pitched camp, remove your boots and drain any water by hanging the boots upside down on a pair of sticks hammered into the ground (this is when a nice dry pair of trainers is much appreciated). Place the boots the right way up and stuff the with newspaper (if available), changing the paper after a few hours (I have heard that oats where once used). If no paper is available dirty cloth are an alternative, otherwise you just have to hope for a good drying breeze. Putting cold, wet boots on in the morning is not the most enjoyable experience but they do soon warm up. Tip, don’t try and dry your boot by the fire and this will melt and rubber and crack the leather. Also remember to position the boots under the tarp at night to stop them from being filled with rain water whilst your asleep.
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